Shanghai Korean BBQ Ditches Beer for Champagne—Hanro Rewrites the Rules with Dry-Aged Beef

Beer is the standard pairing for Korean BBQ, but Hanro Shanghai insists on doing the opposite. This newly opened barbecue restaurant has swapped tableside beer for champagne, boasting what's said to be Shanghai's largest selection of Korean liquor and champagne—while skipping regular wine altogether.

The restaurant was founded by Chef Tom Ryu of NABI, the acclaimed modern Korean restaurant, who brought in Chef Choi, known for his dry-aging expertise, to lead the kitchen. Located at the corner of Huaihai Road and Donghu Road in Jiahua Building, the second floor houses the main dining area, while the ground floor is reserved for the bar and waiting area. The space carries over NABI's signature black-and-grey minimalist aesthetic, with built-in grills at every table and two private rooms in the back, each seating up to eight.

Meat takes center stage here, with Shandong wagyu and Zhejiang black pork grilled tableside over binchotan charcoal. These richly marbled cuts are deliberately dry- or wet-aged depending on the cut and fat content, transforming the experience from rapid bites to slow savoring. The dipping sauces follow the same restrained philosophy: seaweed salt, Korean doenjang-based paste, and onion sauce form the core trio, with anchovy chili sauce, yuzu doenjang, wasabi sauce, and spicy fish roe sauce (18 RMB each), mentaiko sauce (25 RMB), and truffle sauce (38 RMB) available as add-ons—the yuzu doenjang stands out for its citrus-umami balance.

The Beef Galbi set (RMB666) is a must-order, featuring three well-marbled cuts of beef, including a bone-in short rib that's exclusive to Hanro Shanghai and freshly cut daily. The wagyu is rich and melts in your mouth, while the chewier cuts get more flavorful the more you chew. Other cut options include short plate, flat iron, and beef tongue. The Black Pork Galbi (RMB148) is pre-cooked to tenderize before hitting the grill, laid over scallions and seared so the fat drips right into the charcoal.

The banchan is where it's easy to overeat here — nine plates of kimchi and seasonal vegetables arrive before you even order, priced at RMB15 per person with unlimited refills. Our pick is the cabbage salad tossed in chili sauce, alongside various pickled preparations like fish cake and seaweed.

The non-grill items are equally worth trying: the Black Pork Jjajang Nurungji Rice (RMB88), according to the restaurant's Korean staff, is a nostalgic favorite from Korean school cafeterias, with its sweet-savory sauce and tender pork belly; the Kimchi Jjigae (RMB58) has a broth that's tangy and appetizing, perfect for mixing into rice; and the Buckwheat Cold Noodles (RMB78), brightened with chives for a pop of green and served with chilled beef broth and kimchi, offer a refreshing break between rounds of heavy grilled meat.

Hanro Shanghai has been packed since opening, with two dinner seatings at 5pm and 8:30pm — reservations are a must. Walk-ins after 9pm tend to have better luck getting a table. The restaurant will also be opening for lunch service soon.